Friday, July 29, 2005

Masai Market

The Masai have historically been a pastoral people in eastern Africa and now have settled into central Kenya. As mentioned before, cattle are their way of life. They disdain permanent settlements and despite encroachments of modernity, consumerism, and governmental controls, little has changed their customs and traditions. They have shunned most things that Westerners seek and/or prize. Many tourists to Kenya travel north of Nairobi to the Masai Mara to view the Masai way of life, view the wild game nearby, and to purchase Masai hand crafts.
Now, the Masai may have shunned much of what the West holds dear, but they must make a living. So, every Friday at the Village Market, an upscale outdoor mult-level mall, that looks something out of Beverly Hills or some other swanky Southern California enclave, the Masai (or some "pretending" to be Masai--so much so that the Masai where offical ID badges) bring their wares to sell. One may wish to think of this as a flea market or craft show, but they'd be mistaken. In the states when one visits such an event they are going expecting to see clear signage on prices and other such things. At the Masai Market dickering is the name of the game.
When I was in Kenya in 2002 I went to the market with Don Penney. Don grew up in Senegal and had been to Kenya several times, so something like a free-wheeling bazaar was not something new to him. It was for me. When I was quite young my mother taught my brothers and I to swim by taking us to the edge of a large body of water and throwing us in. With Don I was learning to swim again. There were many things that I learned that day, some which I don't wish to revisit. Suffice it to say, I'm the type of person that wants to know what something costs and make a decision based on the information provided.
As you travel through the market vendors are calling out to you "Papa, see these wonderful "X" (insert item name here). Touching is free. Now the one thing that you do not want to do is say anything commital, such as "I'll be back" [...flashback to 2002...]. Do Not! promise anything--they will find you.... Simply say something like "You have nice things" or "I am not ready to purchase yet." Generally, it is good to get an overview of what is for sale, by whom, and what is the quality. Fortunately, on this visit, Don's wife, Patrice was along to negotiate once we found what we were looking for. Phew!!!
The wares at the Masai Market range from small soap stone items, like painted bowls, napkin rings, plates, and even nativity scenes, woven goods, jewelry, beaded items, and much much more. As I walked through the market many individuals wanted to trade things for my watch or anything else that could be viewed on my person. These included the run-of-the-mill disposable ink pen in my satchel to the "Number 1 Dad" key chain hanging off it. For the latter I said that it was a gift from my daughter and I couldn't part with it. For the others, I just wasn't interested in getting into it with someone--I viewed it as the whole "foot in the door" situation. I wasn't interested in giving an inch.
Just like my previous trip to the Market I came away with many items that I was pleased to get and that friends and family will get to enjoy. This time I feel much more comfortable about what I paid--not too little and not too much...just right.

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